The manufacturers sheet is very poorly translated, this is what I would conservatively set the batteries too:
Set the Victron to
Absorption voltage 14.40V
Maximum absorption time 6h 0m
Float voltage 13.60V (up to 13.8 if needed)
Equalization voltage 15.00V
Automatic equalization Disabled
Temperature compensation -24.00 mV/°C ***(SEE NOTE BELOW)
Low temperature cut-off Disabled
These are the numbers I would use, it is the best interpretation I could get from that poorly translated bad spec sheet from the manufacturer.
You need to have the solar controller as close to the batteries as practicable, < 3 feet is good with a minimum of 12 gage wires going to the battery (I would use 10 gage, but the wiring calculators say 12 is plenty). ***I based to temperature compensation off the poorly made graphic chart, which is -40.00mV/°C but it is not a smooth linear correction they just have 2 drops, however most manufacturers use something closer to -24.00mV/°C, I would use this instead.
If you have undersized wiring or a long distance from the controller to the battery, measure the voltage at the battery and compare it to what the Victron controller says it is to (as another poster said) if there is more than a .1volt difference than you will need to raise all the controller values up higher by that amount to compensate for the voltage sag. For example, if the main readout screen under Battery - Voltage says you have 13.2 volts but your manually connect voltmeter hooked to your battery terminals say you have only 13.0 volts then you will need to adjust all the numbers I gave you for the settings higher by that amount, in this case add 0.2 volts to all settings i.e. Absorption voltage to 14.6 volts instead of 14.4
You do not have a large enough solar to over current the batteries so no worry there.
Don’t use equalize mode at all unless you think the batteries are really bad and as a last ditch effort to revive them.